Maintaining and modifying your Classic Land Rover Series, Defender or Discovery with Workshop Manuals and Maintenance Guides

July 1st, 2014 No comments
Rating 4.90 out of 5

The Sarge - 1983 Series III Land Rover

The Sarge – 1983 Series III Land Rover (ex-Military)

Picture above is my old 1983 Ex-Military Series 3 Land Rover – This wonderful piece of British engineering keeps me amused most weekends, until one day I sadly gave it up for a Discovery II as the missus refused to drive ‘The Sarge’ when her car was off the road for a couple of months… :sigh:

Predictably though, various things can and will go wrong with these old vehicles, so I’ve compiled a list of manuals, guides and useful information here on my Blog. There is a permanent page for this here, but I thought I’d repost this in case any of you missed it!

In addition, I’m posting any docs I can find on the Discovery, Range Rover, Forward Control, Minerva, etc.

For those of you who own a ‘Series’ Landy, you have to read this blog article I found from one of my Twitter followers [link], or you also might want to add a warning light buzzer to stop your battery going flat [link]


Useful Documents

Please note that many of these PDF documents are *huge* – The usually consist of a page-by-page scan of the original workshop manuals that were provided by Land Rover at the time of manufacture. I have collated these documents from various .torrent, FileShare and forum sites across the web, so if you are the original owner, please let me know so I can credit you (and link to your original site)


PLEASE NOTE – THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS – New Documents will be added as and when I discover them!

Please consider buying me a beer if this Blog has helped you fix your Landy! , but remember to mention in the comments how it helped!


Defender and Variants

Document Vehicle(s) Approx File-size Language Link(s)
Workshop Manual 1 to 5 Defender 90 & 110 4.7Mb English [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]
Workshop Manual Supplement Defender 90 & 110 3.7Mb English [1]
[New] Electrical Diagrams 3rd Edition Defender 1997 onwards 2.1Mb English [1]
New Labour Timings Defender 1994 onwards 2.1Mb English [1]
New Workshop Manual Defender 1993 16.9Mb English [1]
New Workshop Manual Defender 1997 16.9Mb English [1]
Conversion to Discovery 200TDi Defender 90 TD 5.2Mb English [1]
Overhaul Manual Defender 300 TDi 1.6Mb English [1]
Wiring Diagram Defender 2002 4.3Mb English [1]
LT77S Gearbox Supplement Defender 90, 110, 130 1.8Mb English [1]
Parts Catalog (Land Rover) Defender 110 1987 onwards 29Mb English [1]
Bearmach Fastparts Catalog Defender 1.3Mb English [1]
Britpart Accessory Catalog Defender 118Mb English [1]
Workshop Manual Defender 300 TDi 1997 7.6Mb English [1]
LT77 Gearbox Manual Defender 90, 110, 130 2Mb English [1]
Water Ingress (Stop leaks) Manual Defender 0.5Mb English [1]
Install Soft Top Defender 0.9Mb English [1]
LT230 Transfer Gearbox Defender 1.6Mb English [1]
LT230T Transfer Gearbox Overhaul Defender 1.2Mb English [1]
R380 Gearbox Overhaul Defender 1.2Mb English [1]
Bearmach Parts Manual 2010 Series IIa, III & Defender 21Mb English [1]
Tuning TDi Engines Defender TDi 0.3Mb English [1]
Owners Manual Defender 90, 110, 130 TD5, TDi, V8 1.2Mb English [1]

Land Rover Ambulance

Document Vehicle(s) Approx File-size Language Link(s)
Workshop Manual Parts 1 to 3 Land Rover Ambulance 0,75 Ton 3.6Mb Dutch [1][2][3]
Handbook Parts 1 to 2 Land Rover Ambulance 0,75 Ton 2.6Mb Dutch [1][2]
Repair and Maintenance Parts 1 to 5 Land Rover Ambulance 0,75 Ton 1.1Mb Dutch [1][2][3][4][5]


Series I

Document Vehicle(s) Approx File-size Language Link(s)
Workshop – Introduction Series I 1.5Mb English [1]
Workshop – Clutch Series I 1.9Mb English [1]
Workshop – Cooling Series I 1.6Mb English [1]
Workshop – Electrical Series I 2.8Mb English [1]
Workshop – Engine Series I 4.4Mb English [1]
Workshop – Gearbox Series I 2.5Mb English [1]
Workshop – Lubrication Series I 0.7Mb English [1]
Workshop – Rear Axle Series I 0.7Mb English [1]
Workshop – Body Series I 1.4Mb English [1]
Workshop – Steering Series I 1.8Mb English [1]
Workshop – Brake Cylinder Series I 0.1Mb English [1]
X-Panda-Cab Brochure Series I 0.7Mb English [1]


Series II, IIa, III, Military and really obscure!

Document Vehicle(s) Approx File-size Language Link(s)
Fairley Overdrive Fitting Instructions Series I, II, IIA and III 1.0Mb English [1]
Repair Operation Manual Land Rover 101 Forward Control 20Mb English [1]
Amendment List [2], [3], [4], [6] Land Rover 101 Forward Control 3.0Mb English [2][3][4][6]
Parts Catalog Land Rover 101 Forward Control 9.5Mb English [1]
Minerva Owners Manual Land Rover Mineva 3.4Mb Dutch [1]
Britpart Accessory Catalog Series IIa & III 118Mb English [1]
Bearmach Parts Manual 2010 Series IIa & III 21Mb English [1]
Workshop Manual Parts 1 to 7 Series III 25Mb English [1][2][3][4][5][6][7]
Workshop Manual Parts 1 to 8 South Africa Series III 12.2Mb English [1][2][3][4][5][6][7]
Parts Catalog 1 to 15 Series III English [1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9][10][11][12][13][14][15]
Sankey 3/4 Ton Trailer All Military 0.9Mb English [1]
Wiring Diagram A Series IIa / III / III Military 0.8Mb English [1]
Wiring Diagram B Series IIa / III 0.7Mb English [1]



Document Vehicle(s) Approx File-size Language Link(s)
Timing Belt Intervals 200 TDi (1990 – 1998) English [1]
Tuning TDi Engines Discovery TDi 0.3Mb English [1]
Britpart Accessory Catalog Discovery 118Mb English [1]
Bearmach Parts Manual 2010 Discovery 1, 2 & 3 21Mb English [1]



Document Vehicle(s) Approx File-size Language Link(s)
Britpart Accessory Catalog Freelander 118Mb English [1]
Bearmach Parts Manual 2010 Freelander 1 & 2 21Mb English [1]

Range Rover

Document Vehicle(s) Approx File-size Language Link(s)
Heating and Ventilation and AC 1987 3.4Mb English [1]
Air Con 1987 3.4Mb English [1]
Lubricants 1987-1991 0.2Mb English [1]
Service Tools 1987 0.6Mb English [1]
Steering 1987 2.3Mb English [1]
Suspension 1987 1.0Mb English [1]
Wheels / Tyres 1987 0.4Mb English [1]
Wipers / Washers 1987 0.5Mb English [1]
Body / Chassis 1987 5.2Mb English [1]
Brakes 1987 5.3Mb English [1]
Cooling 1987 1.1Mb English [1]
Engine 1987 3.5Mb English [1]
Fuel Injection 1987 6.0Mb English [1]
Electrics 1987 10.5Mb English [1]
Exhaust 1987 0.3Mb English [1]
New Automatic Diagnostics ZF4HP22 (1987) 5.8Mb English [1]
New General Fitting Reminders 1987 0.4Mb English [1]
Cruise Control 1989 – 91 0.9Mb English [1]
Drive Shafts 1987 0.3Mb English [1]
Axles 1987 3.0Mb English [1]
L322 Workshop Manual TD6, V8 28Mb English [1]
P38 Workshop Manual 4.0 Petrol, 2.5 Diesel 19Mb English [1]
Torque Values 1 – 4 1989 – 1991 4.0Mb English [1][2][3][4]
Britpart Accessory Catalog Range Rover 118Mb English [1]
Bearmach Parts Manual 2010 Classic, P38, L322 and Sport 21Mb English [1]

Sales & Marketing / Brochures / Misc

Document Vehicle(s) Approx File-size Language Link(s)
Sales Brochure Defender 8.2Mb English [1]
Dimensions / Specifications 2008 Defender 0.04Mb English [1]
Sales Brochure Freelander 2 5.3Mb English [1]
Sales Brochure Discovery 4 9Mb English [1]
Sales Brochure (Accessories) Discovery 4 6.7Mb English [1]
Sales Brochure Range Rover 2011 7.5Mb English [1]
Sales Brochure Range Rover Sport 2011 8.8Mb English [1]
[New] T4 Diagnostics Manual Defender 1994 onwards 2.1Mb English [1]
[New] TestBook User Manual Defender 1994 onwards 2.1Mb English [1]
Please consider buying me a beer if this Blog has helped you fix your Landy!


New Chassis Number Formats (from Wikipedia)

Description Format Example
International VIN, 1980-later 17-characters, SAL______________
Int. VIN for LR do Brazil 17-characters 93R______________
Int. VIN for AAD, 1985-1995 17-characters AAD______________
US/Canada VIN 1987-later 17-characters _________________
International VIN 14-characters (is actually 17 missing the SAL) ______________
1955 9 characters 17.6_____
1956 – 1961 9 characters 1________
1950 9 chars L________ or R________
1962 – 1979 9 _________
1948 – 1949 8 .8______
1950 – 1953 8 .6______
1954 – 1955 8 .7______
1948 – 1949 7 _______
Prototypes 6 110F__
1948 Prototypes 3 R__ or L__


Winter 2012 Bodges and Additions

:: With the winter weather coming in fast, I decided to try and stop the wind blowing in through the top of the door. Some Sugru  ( in the top-left (and a wipe of 3-in-one on the rubber to stop it sticking to that) was the order of the day. I’ll let you know if it works when I drive it next!

:: Starter isolation – I added one of those ‘aircraft style’ isolation switches to the starter motor relay wire – looks great and will keep joyriders confused as the ignition lights all still work, just no turnover of the engine!

:: Shovel on the bonnet – I need to update the pic, but the ‘outlaws’ bought me a military shovel to adorn the bonnet with… nice 🙂

:: LED Strip light (less that 1mm thick) stuck on the underside of the edge of the dashboard. Now I can see to get in it in the dark!

:: Decals for the switches 🙂

:: Headlight Warning Buzzer [guide here] – to stop me flattening the battery!


Categories: General Stuff Tags:

Fixing my old MacBook

April 23rd, 2014 No comments
Rating 4.83 out of 5

Fixing my old MacBook

I’ve always been a fan of PC’s and Intel architectures, but decided a few years ago to my a MacBook to basically see what it’s all about…

I have to say that I fell in love with it immediately – not particularly because its easy to use (its not!), or that the GUI is more logical (nope… not that either!), but the fact that it goes from ‘power on’ to ‘surfing the internet’ in about 5 seconds.

I’m not exaggerating here… I always leave it in ‘sleep’ mode, and from opening the lid to surfing the net really is only a few seconds – normally by the time I log in, email is already downloading.

Since I bought my cheap (£995!)  plastic-body Mac about 5 years ago, I have religiously upgraded it through from Snow Leopard to Lion, Mountain Lion and now Mavericks. Each upgrade caused a degree of instability for a while, but then settled down. Unfortunately this ‘settling down’ period just hasn’t happened with Mavericks and that god-awful spinning beach-ball has almost driven me to throwing my poor little MacBook at a wall or start stamping on it repeatedly…

Finally this weekend I could take no more and decided to ‘wipe it’ and start again – all I can say is “why didn’t I do this sooner…”

Here is the process I used to get my MacBook back to a speedy functioning laptop again:-

  • Backup all pictures / music etc.
    • Time Machine
    • External Drive
    • Drag-n-drop over a network share to another PC (This is what I did)
  • Make sure you have your Apple App Store email address and password before continuing
  • Power off the Mac
  • Press and Hold Command and R whilst powering on and keep holding them down until recovery screen appears (read this: )


  • Select Disk Utility and then select Wipe Disk


  • Wipe the main MacBook Drive
  • Close the Disk Utility tool and return to the Recovery Screen
  • Select Reinstall OS X and follow the on-screen instructions (it will ask you for a WiFi password and Apple App Store credentials to confirm you have a MacBook)


That’s it! After the MacBook rebooted and asked me to set region, password etc., all worked super-fast and fuss free.




Private work or ‘Freelance gigs’ – Is it worth it?

January 21st, 2014 No comments
Rating 4.83 out of 5

Avid reader,

It’s been a while since I last posted, due mainly to being extremely busy working on a number of side-projects.

The question then arises; “Should you do ‘side-gigs'” whilst working in a full-time job? I suppose it depends on a number of things – and with that in mind, I’ll detail below what you should be mindful off, and the pitfalls that you may stumble across, and ask yourself “Is it actually worth it…”


Why are you doing private work? Is it to make a few extra pounds or pay for a nice holiday in the Summer? You should set out the reasons for you working extra hours in order to properly evaluated the benefits. If, for instance, you are working every weekend in order to pay for a new touring bicycle, then it seems pretty pointless if you never get to take it out as you are working every weekend.


If you are doing a project for a friend or family member, they are immediately going to think that you are a) Going to do it for ‘free’, or b) Charge them next-to-nothing. This (unfortunately) can be a difficult subject to broach with them, especially if their perception is ‘Well it’ll only take you a minute to do that’. If the project is for a business, then you need to consider the price you are quoting versus the time-scales in which you can deliver it. Ultimately if you are working at home in the evenings and at weekends, it’s not viable for you to quote based on the number of days between order and delivery as you will not be putting in as much time and effort as you would in your day job. This leads us neatly onto….


In this modern Internet-connected always-on Facebook/Twitter age, everyone expects an immediate response to any email they send (I get people phoning me at weekends to ask me if I’ve read an email!) – You should at the outset define how available you are going to be, and the response time that they should expect. It’s not unreasonable to say “Please email me any queries, and I’ll get back to you within a day as I’m working on a number of projects at the moment”. Clearly it is not conducive to have a private client calling you at your main day-job, as I suspect your employer might get a little upset if they think you are running a business on the side whilst they are paying you for your time.

Clear specification

One of the biggest issues I have with developing a website or writing an application is what I call ‘Feature creep’. This is where the client says “Oh, I’d like it to do ‘x'” and then a week later tells you, “Ah… when its doing ‘x’, can it also do ‘y’ and ‘z’ at the same time”. There is no simple solution to this, but a good approach is to create a ‘Statement of Requirements’ with the client that details everything that they have asked for. You can then quote a cost and delivery time-scales based on this, with the rider that anything over and above the initial specification may be subject to additional charges dependant on the amount of increased work required.

Ongoing Support

In terms of product support, again you should set out clear guidelines as to what they can expect from you. In my case I will provide documented source code and database schemas, and manage any bugs that may crop up over say a 6-month period. Anything after that I would charge on a time and materials basis. This works well in the World of software, but may not be applicable to whatever you are doing in order to make some extra money.


You should be aware that anything you earn is subject to Tax – in the UK we have a variety of rules around this, and you should always seek proper financial advice as your circumstances may be different from everyone else’s.


Categories: General Stuff Tags:

Adding a Headlights Warning Buzzer to my Series III Land Rover

February 23rd, 2012 No comments
Rating 4.92 out of 5
Thank you for voting!

Dear Avid Reader,

Despite the superb performance of my Landy in the snow, the poor beast fell foul of that terrible affliction… human error.

It seems that I simply cannot remember to turn off the headlights when getting out of it on a cloudy day (or at dawn/dusk).

In order to save the embarrassment of having the guys at the office try to bump-start it (with a completely flat battery), or the ignominy of being jump-started by a Nissan Micra (yes… it happened), I developed a simple circuit using an old relay and a cheap buzzer in order to stop this happening again.

If you want to check wiring colours for your Land Rover, look at my Manuals page [here]


As you can see, the Relay being in a ‘Normally Closed’ position would make the buzzer sound all the time the lights are on, but the power from the ignition opens the relay and stops the buzzer sounding. When you turn off the ignition and remove the key, the relay closes, and if the lights are still on, the buzzer sounds.

This isn’t complicated, but boy does it save some hassle.

Now… the next thing to do is build this into as small a package as possible, and determine the least intrusive way of connecting the 3 wires to the Land Rover without having to dismantle the dashboard!

After procuring a simple NC relay (courtesy of the local Motor Factors), I planned the connections out as follows:-

I then soldered some wires onto the buzzer, and crimped connectors onto all the cables as you can see. The reason for using a ‘NC’ (Normally Closed) relay, is that when then ignition is in the ‘on’ position, the relay is charged, and the contacts open. Therefore breaking the connection and stopping the buzzer from sounding. When you turn off the ignition, the buzzer will sound if there is power to the bottom leg of the relay (labeled ‘Lights+’ above). Therefore If the lights are off, no power = no buzzer, and if the ignition is on, open-contacts = no buzzer.

Next, I needed to connect it to the wiring in my Landy (which as you can see, is a bit archaic!) – On my ex-Military model, the Blue/Black wire is live when the main headlamps are on (I didn’t want the buzzer for side-lights, just in case I wanted to park it on a lane and leave those on). The earth was snagged from a screw into the bulkhead (where most of the relays seem to be earthed anyway!), and the Ignition live was derived from a spare spade connector on the Ignition barrel. You can probably find your particular wiring diagram [here]

Job’s a good ‘un – Buzzer sounds now if I leave the headlamps on with the ignition off.




CommsBlog Xmas Special – Repurposing old technology

December 19th, 2011 No comments
Rating 4.83 out of 5
Thank you for voting!

Dear Avid Reader,

Yes it’s that time of year when we eat too much, drink too much and have unnecessary arguments with relatives over the pitiful TV that they laughingly call entertainment.

As one of my readers, you’re probably going to be in receipt of a number of gadgets, gizmo’s and techno-treats this year (despite the death of the British Pound according to my friend HERE)

The question is… what do you do with all your old tech? Well here are some ideas of how you could repurpose that equipment:-



Despite your apparent need for 4Gb’s of RAM and Quad-core processing, that old laptop of yours seemed blisteringly fast a couple of Christmas’s ago… so what happened? Well ‘you did’ apparently… Most PCs and Laptops just get slower due to lots of unnecessary software, media and temporary files. Of course at this point you already have a nice new shiny one, so why don’t you format the hard-drive on the old one (or use the recovery disks) and give it to your Nan or Grandad so they can Skype you? One useful idea is to put Ubuntu on it as there is then little danger of Trojans, Viruses or Malware infecting your poor unsuspecting (and unknowledgeable) Grandparents.

Ubuntu Installation Guide: [link]


Old Net-tops, Notebooks and Underpowered PC’s

There is an excellent article on that details how to create your own Media Center PC from an old computer [link] or you could even turn it into a NAS (Network Attached Storage device) for your home network for the purposes of Backup (Pictures etc), Media (Music, Films) or for downloading .torrent files etc. Again this is detailed in a nice article from LifeHacker [link]


Mobile/Cell Phones

Yes… we all need the latest iPhone or Android (obviously the latter if you are a proper tech-head!), but that Nokia or Samsung you use to use for making calls and sending texts is still a perfectly functional bit of kit. Here are some ideas for that too:-

  • Stick a Pre-pay SIM in it (on a different network to your usual one), and put it in the boot of your car with a cigarette lighter charger for emergencies – e.g. Your phone is dead/lost/no signal and you have broken down.
  • Stick a Pre-pay SIM in it, enable ‘fixed dialing only’ (A mechanism that only allows the phone to dial pre-configured numbers), and give it to your young children to put in their School bag. They can’t call anyone or play games on it, but again, in the case of an emergency or missing a School bus…
  • Give it to Phone for Heroes – they use the sale of these old handsets to support the Help for Heroes charity



Its patently ridiculous how many TV sets we are throwing away because they are Analog… You can purchase a Freeview box for about £20 and turn it into a Digital TV, so why not put it in the spare room for when the kids are home for Christmas or make sure that Granny can watch TV in the Kitchen and Bedroom?

If you still have no use for it, then take it to a charity shop as they can then use the proceeds to fund a good cause.

My Guide to Reusing old TV and HiFi equipment: [link]


Games Consoles

Its frightening how many games consoles end up at the local tip… Those old XBOX consoles are probably one of the most hackable devices out there. By making a minor internal modification with an xecuter chip, you can use XBMC (XBOX Media Center) software and turn your XBOX into a full-blown Music and Video media box. Marry this up with one of the old TV’s above, and you’ve created a Media box for your games room/summer house.

Installing XBMC on an XBOX: [link]


Surround-sound / All-in-one players

Well these are fantastic for enhanced the kids games-room – add one of these to their games console and they have a more immersive experience, and the volume levels tend to go down. Another good use for these is to add to the Media system detailed above and place in your Summerhouse/Shed for those garden parties. Its just a case of unwinding the speaker wires and you have a sound system in the Garden. Add an old Radio Receiver and you can pipe your favourite music station into the garden whilst sunbathing.

My Guide to Reusing old HiFi equipment: [link]



Categories: Christmas, General Stuff, Hacking, Modding Tags: